SOME parts of the inlay clearly broke off, probably while carving it, but were hard to detect somehow. And also consider using a 30-degree V bit for the inlays. You might also want to watch grain orientation, such that the grain on both inlay and base are in the same direction. You shouldn't have to sand to get them to fit.I just use a soft wire brush to clean up the fuzzies. Too looks like parts of the inlay have broken off. Randyr wrote:I think you nailed it when you asked about poplar. There were some small issues here, particularly around the little dots, but it worked MUCH better than what I tried above, as you can see. Is my choice(s) of wood bad? Should I be using something other than Cherry ? Are there rules of thumb about not inlaying a soft furry-tear-out prone wood like poplar into harder wood like cherry that might cause fit issues? Should it be hard-into-hard, or hard into-soft?Īn example that proves that I can get V-inlaying to work. Is it advisable to sand the male/female parts lightly before fitting to prevent this sort of problem ? Other suggestions as to what could cause such large mis-fits, assuming i'm properly following the guide? For the VInlay issues: I've previously got a Maple-into-Walnut example to work much better (my only other attempt), but that one had a few minor issues around a couple small /tight features.
#Vectric vcarve pro inlay how to#
do I need a better font for the english lettering? Suggestions as to what would reduce problems/what to look for (I'm not sure how to choose a "good" font?) ? Or should I use a 60 or 90 degree bit instead of 30? Will that lead to less or more chip out issues? I'm afraid the small lettering won't show up nicely with the shallow 90 degree bit. I've done a successful inlay with maple into walnut before, but this poplar-into-cherry one isnt working, and i'm not sure why. The inlay seems to "fit", roughly speaking, but when I clamp it and glue it, it seems to leave random large gaps, and in a couple cases, missing the hippo feet. Additionally, there's a notable degree of tear-out thats damn near impossible to sand out, and looks ugly.
#Vectric vcarve pro inlay pdf#
Particularly the a/e/g letters in the english font used in the PDF I took the vectors from seem to have portions chip out. I have trouble with the english letters, but not the hebrew here. The only deviation I can detect in my setup vs the video is using a 60 degree instead of 90 degree bit, but that should be OK? the V-inlay paths (male and female) carefully following the youtube demo settings (rewatched multiple times). Calculate VCarve tool path with default settings with a 0.125" 30 degree bit. Calculate 3D tool paths (no problems here) Setup front of the Job in Aspire, model the 3D components, arrange lettering, etc. While the front is mostly beautiful and the 3D came out nice, I noticed some issues with the Vcarving of the english lettering (~0.18" high capital letters) on the front of the piece, and the inlay I wanted on the back was straight up ugly, so I need some practical advice in both areas. I've made a test piece in cherry (see Back/Front pictures, poplar wood inlay of Hippos on the back). I want to carve a custom wedding tablet for a friend out of a board made of a suitable decorative hard(ish)wood (thinking Cherry, Walnut, Maple, etc. A current hobby project surfaced up the problems more acutely with two techniques i want to be proficient at, but am struggling with: VCarve Inlays, and V-Carve text engraving with smaller letters. However, i'm having trouble in a couple areas I could use advice on.
#Vectric vcarve pro inlay full#
I'm a relatively new (hobby) user to Aspire (I've only been playing with a demo and the full product for a few months), but i've figured out how to make plenty of beautiful things already.